Leak detection & repair
Pressure and dye testing to find where the water is going, then a proper fix at the shell, fitting or pipe.Pressure and dye testing to find where the water is going, then a proper fix.
Leaks, dead pumps, loose tile, worn-out plaster. We find the actual cause, put the price in writing, and repair it so it stays fixed.
Repair is what this site is for. Shell, tile, plumbing and everything on the equipment pad, for residential pools and attached spas.
Pressure and dye testing to find where the water is going, then a proper fix at the shell, fitting or pipe.Pressure and dye testing to find where the water is going, then a proper fix.
Noisy, overheating or dead pumps diagnosed and repaired, or replaced when a repair no longer makes sense.Noisy, overheating or dead pumps repaired, or replaced when repair no longer makes sense.
Cartridge, sand and DE filters rebuilt or replaced, along with cracked tanks, valves and gauges.Cartridge, sand and DE filters rebuilt or replaced, plus tanks, valves and gauges.
Gas heaters and heat pumps that won't fire, keep shutting off or show an error code.Units that won't fire, keep shutting off or show an error code.
Loose, cracked or missing waterline tile reset and re-grouted. Coping stones re-bedded and sealed.Waterline tile reset and re-grouted. Coping stones re-bedded and sealed.
Shell and deck cracks assessed first, then stapled, injected or patched depending on what is moving.Shell and deck cracks assessed, then stapled, injected or patched.
Hollow spots, flaking and rough plaster patched, or the whole shell resurfaced when it is due.Hollow spots and rough plaster patched, or the whole shell resurfaced.
Leaking light niches, failed salt cells and control panels that stopped talking to the equipment.Leaking light niches, failed salt cells and control panels that stopped responding.
Typical ranges for the jobs we are called out for most. They are estimates built from Florida pricing; the written quote after we have seen your pool is the number that counts.
Full price guideEstimates only, reviewed October 8, 2026. Parts, access and the size of the pool move the final figure.
Most calls we get begin with one of these. Here is what is usually behind it and what the repair looks like.
Usually: A leak in the shell, at a fitting or light niche, or in the underground plumbing.a leak in the shell, at a fitting, or in the underground plumbing.
Repair: Leak detection first, then a patch, fitting reseal or pipe repair.leak detection, then a patch, reseal or pipe repair.
Usually: A failing motor or capacitor, a worn shaft seal, or air getting in on the suction side.a failing motor or capacitor, or air on the suction side.
Repair: Motor or seal replacement, or a suction-side plumbing repair.motor or seal replacement, or a suction-side fix.
Usually: A filter that has stopped filtering: torn grids, a spent cartridge or channeled sand.torn filter grids, a spent cartridge or channeled sand.
Repair: Filter rebuild or replacement, then a check of flow and pressure.filter rebuild or replacement.
Usually: Water getting behind the tile line, failed grout, or movement between the deck and the pool.water behind the tile line or movement at the deck joint.
Repair: Tile reset and re-grout, coping re-bedded, expansion joint resealed.tile reset, coping re-bedded, joint resealed.
Usually: Plaster that has reached the end of its life or is lifting away from the shell.plaster at the end of its life or lifting off the shell.
Repair: Spot patching where it is local, a full resurface where it is not.spot patching, or a full resurface.
Usually: Low flow, a bad sensor or igniter, or corrosion inside the unit.low flow, a bad sensor or igniter, or corrosion.
Repair: Diagnosis at the unit, then the part replaced and the heater run through a full cycle.part replaced, heater run through a full cycle.
Call or send the form with the address and what you're seeing.Call or send the form with the address and what you're seeing.
We test before we quote: pressure, dye and electrical readings as the problem calls for.We test before we quote: pressure, dye and electrical readings.
You get the cause, the fix and the price in writing before anything is taken apart.The cause, the fix and the price in writing before work starts.
We do the work, run the system and show you it is holding before we leave.We do the work, run the system and show you it is holding.
We cover Duval County and the neighboring communities. Not sure you're in range? Put your address in the form and we'll confirm.
It depends on what failed and how hard it is to reach. A cracked fitting at the equipment pad is a small job. A leak under the deck is not. We look at the pool first and give you a written price before any work starts. The estimate is free, and our repair price guide shows typical ranges.
Try the bucket test. Fill a bucket with pool water, set it on a step so the water inside and outside sit at the same level, and mark both. After 24 hours, if the pool has dropped more than the bucket, you are losing water to a leak.
We work on concrete (gunite) pools and their attached spas, which is most of what is in the ground around Jacksonville. Fiberglass and vinyl liner shells are outside what we take on; equipment repairs on the pad are fine whatever the shell.
Yes. We work on equipment from the major manufacturers. If a part has been discontinued, we'll tell you what the replacement options are and what each one costs.
Call or send the form and we'll offer you the next open slot. If the pool is losing water fast or equipment is leaking, say so and we'll move it up.
Jacksonville Pool Repairs is built around fixing pools. There is noNo maintenance contract to sign and no push toward a remodel you didn't ask for. You tell us what's wrong, we find out why, and we repair it.
A husband and wife own and run the company, one of them raised in Neptune Beach, and it has been taking care of Jacksonville pools since 2002. Our plaster work follows the National Plasterers Council start-up procedure. More about us.